Vegan Food for the Rest of Us: Recipes Even You Will Love

In her newest cookbook, Hodgman (Beat This! Cookbook) convinces naysayers and skeptics that veganism doesn’t have to be pretentious. Without being overbearing, Hodgman touches on why adopting a vegan lifestyle is better for the environment, reminding readers, for example, that “dairy products keep the veal industry in business.” Her soups and salads, such as her green bean salad, are simple and refreshing, but her mains are standouts. Hodgman believes that “vegan main dishes are without a doubt the most challenging form of vegan cooking,” and here she suggests some solid entrées, such as curried tofu wraps; a leek, white bean, and mushroom tart; and pan-fried dumplings. Her desserts, meanwhile, include veganized classics such as chocolate mousse and lemon squares as well as some creative additions such as orange olive-oil cupcakes and swiss meringue buttercream). The section on appetizers, however, lacks variety and curation. She also makes a few unpopular decisions that many vegans might question, such as incorporating honey, an ingredient widely excluded from plant-based cooking. Hodgman is known for her humor, but at times she bewilders, leaving readers to wonder if they missed the joke (“We’re allowed to make food taste good,” she writes about a recipe for bubble and squeak, “even nursery food”). But overall, there is something to be learned from Hodgman, as well as good food to be made. Agent: Susan Cohen, Writers House. (June)