The California Cook

The author of The Cuisine of California and The Taste of Summer revisits the same territories in this fairly comprehensive, occasionally intriguing collection. Suggesting that the California cook is defined not by geography but by a ``sense of adventure about food,'' Worthington also emphasizes fresh ingredients and ``unexpected twists'' put in familiar dishes. Thus white chocolate and pistachio nuts recast the Toll House cookie, and lasagne is transformed with roasted vegetables, pesto and bechamel. Influences here are Asian (roast turkey marinated in olive oil, balsamic vinegar and soy sauce), Mexican (grilled chicken, black bean and corn salad with salsa dressing) and Italian (soft polenta with sun-dried tomato pesto). Many offerings blend these approaches (pasta with ancho chili and tomato cream; grilled sea bass with caponata), while others demonstrate a deeper ingenuity: green pea guacamole and West Coast crab cakes with grapefruit sauce. The chapter on salads features grains and poultry as well as assorted greens; ``Light Entrees'' supplies pasta dishes, risottos and pizzas; the meat selections suggest a revived interest in beef, lamb and veal. Menu selections and wine tips, from Anthony Dias Blue, are included. (May)