Precious: The History and Mystery of Gems Across Time

“Gemstones may be a constant in history, but the way they have been used, prized, valued, and marketed has also been the subject of constant change,” according to this stimulating if incomprehensive debut. Chronicling the cultural histories of 10 types of stone, Molesworth, the jewelry curator at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, explains that though spinel was prized by 16th- and 17th-century Mughal emperors who liked that it could be found in chunks large enough to be engraved, the red stone’s visual similarity to ruby earned it a reputation as an imposter, lowering its value. Molesworth contends that diamonds owe their place atop the hierarchy of precious jewels to 1930s advertising campaigns commissioned by the De Beers diamond company, which sought to boost demand during the Great Depression by creating the “impression that [the] often plentiful material was both rare and desirable.” Elsewhere, Molesworth discusses emerald’s popularity with the upper crust of ancient Egyptian society and ruby’s role as a healing gem in the Ayurvedic tradition. The eye-opening history reveals how the value and associated qualities of gems varies over time, but Molesworth unfortunately glances over darker historical episodes, offering only passing references to the “blood diamond” trade and the frequently abysmal working conditions in gem mines. Though a few blind spots diminish its luster, this still shines. (Sept.)