American Charcuterie

She loved to cook but hated to work at night, so owning a restaurant was out of the question. Instead, Wise opened a French-style charcuterie in 1973. Her Berkeley-based Pig-by-the-Tail stretches the standard pork-butcher's fare to include treats available in the gourmet American delicatessen. Salads contain chicken, vegetables and fish in addition to pork. Most of Wise's pates, terrines, galantines, sausages, preserved meats, fresh salads, sweets, and vegetable and fruit dishes are low in salts and fats and free of preservatives. She draws on diverse ethnic cuisines in such recipes as Swedish potato sausage, Armenian lamb pizzas and chile Colorado. Wise offers creative suggestions for accompanying condiments and forms of presentation. These recipes are not for the unambitious or inexperienced, yet Wise's instructions are lucid and thorough, and her passion for cooking infectious. Unfortunately, preparation times aren't noted and unimaginative drawings accompany the inventive recipes. BOMC/Cooking & Crafts Club alternate; author tour. (April 28)