The Four Seasons Spa Cuisine

In 1984, the Four Seasons in Manhattan inaugurated the healthful Spa Cuisine, which now accounts for at least a quarter of the restaurant's orders. With the assistance of a nutritionist, chef Renggli developed the 50 menus presented here with strict requirements: each meal, consisting of an appetizer and entree, contains about 700 calories, is relatively high in protein and such nutrients as iron and zinc, and low in fat, salt and cholesterol. Readers will find that healthy can still be elegant with sauteed breast of quail with melon on pecan rice, or cold paupiettes of trout with red pepper mousse. Unfortunately, mixing and matching is discouraged because the menus, not the individual recipes, are nutritionally balanced. Desserts are omitted because Renggli wasn't happy working with artificial sweeteners, creams and eggs. But if your mood is sweet, pull a switch and choose grilled beef, lamb and veal tenderloin with braised lentils for a main course and save the appetizersliced summer fruits with mango pureeas a satisfying dessert. 50,000 ad/promo; first serial to Ladies' Home Journal; BOMC/Cooking & Crafts Club alternate. (May)