Risotto

This volume comprises more than 100 creative variations on basic risotto, a rice dish from northern Italy. In addition to serving risotto as a first course in the Italian style, the authors suggest it as a side dish or as an entree when accompanied by bread and a salad or vegetable. These recipes derive from classic and new Italian cooking, as well as the authors' imaginations. Beginning with basic saffron risotto, Barrett and Wasserman work their way through cheese, vegetable, meat, fish, wine and even fruit-flavored dishes. Rice is combined with goat cheese, Gruyere, Camembert and ricotta, as well as with cabbage, zucchini blossoms or fresh mushrooms, cognac and cream. Seafood offerings include scallops, shrimp and mushrooms, squid and artichokes, and smoked salmon, while meat variations feature sweetbreads, duck and spicy rabbit. Strawberries, apples and grapefruits flavor some of the stylish, savory fruit risottos. Barrett is a freelance food writer, and Wasserman is an illustrator and owner of a gourmet-food shop. Illustrations not seen by PW. (January 26)