The Mediterranean Kitchen

Goldstein is that rarity among chefs--a successful restaurant owner (of San Francisco's Square One), food columnist ( San Francisco Chronicle ), and self-taught, self-made cook. And as a mother whose children work with her (how many cooks can say, ``my son, the sommelier''?), Goldstein takes a practical approach to working with food. While American ingredients may not create the most authentic Mediterranean fare, she reassures, ``We cook this food with the best ingredients available . . . it will be in the spirit of the Mediterranean.'' Her down-to-earth attitude finds its culinary counterpart in food that is ``simple, unpretentious . . . satisfying to eat and not too complicated to prepare.'' Twelve chapters cover appetizers, salads, soups, pastas, beans, grains, fish, poultry, meats, vegetables and desserts, illustrated by daughter Rachel. Standouts include a simple, refreshing black bean salad with prosciutto and hard-cooked eggs and a mushroom and hazelnut soup. As befits a home kitchen, dishes may be partially or entirely prepared ahead and assembled at the last minute. Illustrations not seen by PW. (Nov.)