Making Sense of Wine

Recommend Kramer's book to cherished adult ``children'' who refuse to be weaned from the beer bottle--this book may do the trick of transforming wine drinking into a familiar pleasure. While much wine writing verges on pedantry, columnist Kramer brings a disciplined reporter's ear to his job, along with wit and intelligence to spare. A relatively recent convert to wine, the author remembers how intimidating the drink can be, and seeks to tame it by solving the mysteries of its history, customs and manners. Why, for example, are many corks branded with their vineyard's name and year? As a precaution and tool for identification, lest the bottle label deteriorate in a damp cellar, and the cook or host need to verify the contents. Kramer is also not afraid to say, in his blunt style, that the overly technical language often used to explain how champagne comes by its bubbles is ``gobbledegook.'' And because he asserts that wine is meant to be imbibed with food--``without the context of food, wine is a eunuch''--his final chapter includes recipes for such delicacies as blanc-manger and butternut squash soup. (Sept.)