Chef Paul Prudhomme's Fork in the Road

What fork for the New Orleans chef and food entrepreneur? The one with health on one side and high fat and calorie content on the other. In his latest book, which will complement a television series slated for release in early 1994, Prudhomme ( Seasoned America ) thins his roux of sin without, he believes, imposing sacrifices on the tastebuds. In his rather paltry dessert section, the chilled ``Spiced Apple Cream'' contains skim milk and cottage cheese; ``Chocolate Yum Stuff,'' a cake, calls for skim milk and egg substitute. And one wonders: Can the defatted seafood stock in ``Shrimp and Hot Curry Cream Soup'' carry the day? (But then, calories per one-cup serving come to only 339, with very few deriving from fat content.) And won't crawfish mushroom omelet suffer, no matter the great list of spices, from the dominance of egg substitute? It seems likely, though not certain. Still, Prudhomme's intentions are noble, and said straight: ``If it doesn't taste good, I don't want to eat it, and I don't think you want to either.'' Author tour. (Oct.)