Lighter, Quicker, Better

Short of time, longing for flavor and striving for culinary virtue, today's harried cooks will welcome this collection of over 200 recipes with its multitude of ingenious suggestions and substitutions. Tendering recipes for dishes that have been trimmed of fat but not robbed of flavor, veteran cookbook writers Sax and Simmons, who also coauthor Bon Appetit's ``Cooking for Health'' column, make use of such flavor-intensive ingredients as citrus zest, roasted vegetables and fresh herbs (Fish Steaks Glazed with Ginger, Soy and Lime; Roasted Tomato Gazpacho with Basil Puree). Sax and Simmons also create low-fat versions of old favorites: ``Unfried'' Fried Chicken and Deep, Dark Devil's Food Cake. Soups are thickened with pureed vegetables instead of cream; lowfat milk and whole eggs make a respectable custard sauce. While many recipes are quickly prepared (Spicy Tortilla Chips need just 10 minutes in a hot oven), time-saving tips for individual recipes are also included. Never losing sight of the importance of taste, the authors urge a judicious use of such flavor essentials as Parmesan cheese and olive oil. (June)