The New Making of a Cook: The Art, Techniques, and Science of Good Cooking

A major revision of an encyclopedic work, this authoritative two-volume update of Kamman's original The Making of a Cook (in print since 1971) takes serious cooks way beyond recipes into the principles and chemistry of cooking. Kamman, who has a clear bias toward classic French cooking, strikes an ambivalent note only in her stand on bringing artery-clogging fare up to contemporary low-fat standards. In the headnote for Roast Stuffed Cornish Hen with cream cheese, creme fraiche, pork sausage and the unexpected Grape Nuts cereal, she admonishes: ""Go back on your diet tomorrow."" Then again, many rich recipes go unremarked upon, like the one for Endive Pie with butter, bacon and heavy cream baked in short pastry. Her explanations of subjects like Cooking with Wines and Classic Brown Sauces--and a glossary of common and uncommon vegetables--will likely prove priceless to both curious home cooks and professionals. Certain groups of recipes, like those for souffles (Hickory-Smoked Cheddar Souffle, Baked Yam and Ham Souffle, Moussaka Souffle), stand out for their inventiveness and clear instructions. Kamman does a thorough job of presenting cooks with the tools to adapt, improvise and to develop and exercise their own culinary judgments. (Sept.)