The Best Food Writing 2011

Hughes's compilations of culinary essays and observations have always served as an erudite wrap-up for the year's trends, and the 2011 collection lives up to this precedent. Continuing the tradition of breadth and depth, this collection includes: essays on the importance of African-American soul food (Jessica B. Harris's "We Shall Not Be Moved"); a profile of a Texan who has fried everything from corn dogs to Coca-Cola (Katy Vine's "I Believe I Can Fry"); and Christopher Kimball's pursuit of a pitch-perfect recreation of the labor-intensive Mock Turtle Soup in the essay of the same name. In addition, Hughes (Frommer's 500 Places for Food and Wine Lovers) includes investigative essays on food deserts, the impact of Yelp! and social media, and issues facing dairy producers. They aren't all winners%E2%80%94Tim Hayward's arch take on oysters is the nadir of pretension%E2%80%94but the good outweighs the mediocre. Hughes's sense of humor (a profile of molecular gastronomist Nathan Myhrvold is immediately followed by an impassioned essay on the importance of handwritten recipes) and deft selections keep things balanced. There is truly an essay for every foodie here. (Oct.)