This 1920s Italian-American steakhouse—which has now expanded to almost 30 locations throughout the country—is a New York City institution, and this cookbook by Binns (Polenta
) celebrates its "virtually unchanged" menu. Indeed, the recipes are hearty and rich, and hark back to the days of Prohibition, when Americans indulged themselves in the pleasures of fine dining. The book begins, appropriately, with such libations as the Famous McClure Cocktail, a combination of gin, brandy, Curaçao and apricot liqueur. Appetizers include Shrimp Bruno (battered and fried with a Dijon sauce) and Grilled Beefsteak Salad with Gorgonzola, Arugula and Radicchio. The book offers a large selection of old-style Italian-American dishes, but it would not be complete without the specialty, the New York Strip Steak, which executive chef Tony Tammero recommends: "once it hits the heat, leave it alone until you're ready to turn it, and do that as gently as you'd pat a baby's bottom." Reading this book is like a joyful, nostalgic step back in time. (Oct.)
