B
ubby's, in New York City, known for its comfort food, began simply in 1990 with pie. Owner Silver, who was trying to find a way to support his writing habit, started a wholesale pie business (which later morphed into two restaurants). This publication celebrates the once-humble dessert that helped launch the popular TriBeCa and (later) Brooklyn outposts. Silver and coauthor Bervin strike a balance with recipes that are doable for the new baker and dynamic enough for the experienced pie maker. A primer on crusts covers flaky, sweet crumb and savory, and is accompanied by how-to illustrations. The authors also prime readers on fruit pies before launching into chapters including cream and custard pies and savory pies. In addition, seasonal pie chapters and recipes for deep-dish desserts (such as buckles, crisps and cobblers), dumplings and sauces fill the collection. The majority of pies are classics such as Blackberry Pie and Coconut Custard, but the inventive (Fried Apple-Whiskey Pies and Paella Pie) also have a presence. “Ask Bubby” highlighted boxes offer solutions for common preparation problems, while concise, well-written headnotes provide useful information and inspiration. This carefully compiled text addresses all experience levels as well as classic and contemporary pies, giving it a broad appeal. (Aug.)
