Simply Sensational Desserts: 140 Classics for the Home Baker from New York's Famous Patisserie and Bistro

There is no doubt that Fran ois Payard can conjure up complex French desserts: he does it every day at his eponymous p tisserie and bistro in New York City. Here, however, he takes on a different challenge, and succeeds brilliantly, creating less complicated recipes that home cooks can easily follow. Some of the most interesting offerings are fruit soups such as Spiced Cherry Soup, Rhubarb-Lemongrass Soup and Fricassee of Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar. Payard is equally inventive with tarts, coming up with a rich Hazelnut Tart with Chocolate Chantilly Cream; a traditional Mediterranean Swiss Chard Tart culled from the south of France; and a Rice Tart based on a packaged custard dessert Payard loved as a child. Even souffl s seem less daunting with Payard's careful instructions. A Warm Harlequin Souffl is a praline-and-vanilla checkerboard. Many dessert cookbooks make readers drool; this one will actually help them bake. It suffers from none of the endless ingredient lists so endemic to cookbooks by chefs, and Payard's instructions and supporting materials on equipment and ingredients are superb. (Sept.)