HIGH HEAT: Grilling and Roasting Year-Round with Master Chef Waldy Malouf

The occasional use of bacon as a flavor enhancer and several inspired pork and shellfish dishes highlight this collection of 125 recipes from the chef of the two Beacon restaurants in New York City and Stamford, Conn. Quail with Bacon, Sage and Camembert calls for a stuffing of bacon and cheese as well as a bacon vinaigrette enhanced with shallot and sherry vinegar. Such high-end ingredients and rich, sophisticated flavor combinations are the norm. Loin of Pork with Apples and Bitter Chocolate is emblazoned with a rub of jalapeño, cocoa, thyme and cinnamon, then set afloat in a chicken broth with brandy and sliced Cortlands. And Grilled Soft-Shell Crab Sandwiches are done up on toasted English Muffins smeared with Tarragon Mayonnaise. If the complexity of these entrees is challenging, the ability to cook them year-round is inspiring. For nearly every recipe, there are separate instructions for cooking "On the Grill" and "In the Oven." Thus, in August, Duck Breasts are seared and smoky after 10 minutes atop the coals before being served with Tangerine and Arugula salad. In February, the broiler does the chore in half the time, forsaking sear marks for crispy, browned skin. That Malouf was also once the chef at New York's Rainbow Room is reflected in the ornate desserts that round out the collection: Caramelized Bananas with Blood Oranges, Rum and Spice call out to be served flambe like the Baked Alaska of yore, but are surprisingly cooled instead, with dollops of sour cream. (May)