Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges

Vongerichten is a culinary adventurer, and for those cooks eager to expand their own horizons, this is a welcome record of the chef’s passion: the food of Thailand, China, India, Vietnam—indeed, all of Asia—passed through the filter of his inimitable creativity and classic French training. Featuring recipes for the food he serves at his Asian fusion restaurants—Spice Market, Vong and the recently closed 66—these recipes are not for the timid or the time-pressed, but they do open a world of exciting tastes to those cooks willing to put in the time. Requiring an augmented pantry (food sources are suggested by the author) and a taste for sometimes unfamiliar flavors, the recipes are clear and results worth the effort. Crunchy Potato Salad includes radishes, chili, vinegar and just a little sugar in a lively alternative to common oil- or mayonnaise-based dressing. The recipes in the appetizer chapter are the most complicated, requiring a minimum of 10 ingredients and eight or nine steps. But further along, Beef Brisket with Onions and Chile, representing, he says, his own “Alsatian-Jewish-Chinese... roots and the things I love,” is simple and offers a piquant surprise. Among the many virtues of this book is how quickly the cook will use that nam pla sauce that’s been loitering in the fridge for years. The recipes offer a new perspective to the jaded palates of Western cuisine. Photos throughout. (Oct.)