In his second cookbook (after New Italian Cooking
) Conant, chef and part owner of two respected New York City restaurants, shares recipes he enjoys making at home, all of which “celebrate, translate and update dishes from various regions of Italy.” The author starts with small plates like Seared Scallops with Leeks, Potato, and Sausage and traditional Mozzarella in Carozza updated with Cherry Tomato Sauce. Each appetizer accomplishes Conant's goal, which is, he explains, “to wake up the palate, excite the senses... and create anticipation for the meal to come.” Light salads like Roasted Beets with Robiola Cheese are included as well as simple, elegant soups such as Cranberry Bean Soup with Rosemary and Pancetta. He entices with pasta and gnocchi recipes such as Pappardelle with Duck Ragu and Black Olives, and Chicken-filled Gnocchi with Lentil Sauce. Such main dishes as Black Cod with Caramelized Fennel and Concentrated Tomatoes; Whole Roast Chicken with Pumpkin, Mushrooms, and Ginger; Pork Loin with Butternut Squash; and Rib Eye with Kale are accessible, and, indeed, offer bold new spins on traditional dishes. (Apr.)