The New Greek Cuisine

With this satisfying cookbook, Botsacos, the head chef at Manhattan's Molyvos restaurant, translates Greek food for a New World setting without losing authenticity. As is often the case at Greek tables, small dishes dominate: the book begins with mezede plates such as classic Melitzanosalata and a delightful Greek Fava Beans with Arugula, Spring Onions, and Capers; then there are chapters for savory pies (which Botsacos proclaims are "the ultimate finger food"), appetizers—a section that is hard to distinguish from mezedes, but equally full of tempting options—and soups and salads. Restaurant favorites like Aglaia's Moussaka and Chicken Magiritsa are included, though Botsacos gets to stretch his wings a little and adds more unusual recipes such as the Warm Manouri Salad with Baby Beets and Pickled Pearl Onions or Pork Spareribs Marinated in Ouzo and Greek Spices. Much of Botsacos's mix of modern-ancient flavors is quite accessible for those willing to put in the preparation time often required. Still, they are likely to find the effort worthwhile, and if they do not reach quite the culinary heights Botsacos does at Molyvos, his clear guidelines should at least help them bring some fresh Greek flavors to their tables. Color photos not seen by PW . (Oct. 10)