The Sweet Spot: Dialing Back Sugar and Amping Up Flavor

Yoses, executive pastry chef at the White House from 2007 to 2014, demonstrates that flavor trumps sugar in this collection of worthy desserts. The Obamas referred to him as crustmaster-in-chief and joked that his philosophy was to “treat sugar like salt.” He discusses his “seven pillars of healthier desserts,” such as using more whole grains, no processed foods, and including herbs, spices, and essential oils. Chapters are broken down by type of dessert, including pies, tarts, half-pound cakes, and fancy bites. Innovation rules here: the Moroccan-inspired Casbah Cookie features bergamot oil, local honey, and pomegranate seeds, while a pistachio sponge cake makes use of pistachio flour and is served with a kumquat compote. The Gin Crust Winter Pie includes its namesake liquor (an optional ingredient), along with orange blossom water. Notes throughout the collection—with information such as how to work with dried fruit and what to do with leftover yolks—add value to any baker’s arsenal. Yoses, with Kaminsky, has produced a thoughtful, inspiring title to bake through the seasons. (Oct.)