Judy Zeider's Ultimate Deli

Seeking out deli food from around the world (and from among her family's ``heirloom'' recipes), but specifically inspired by the Broadway Deli of Los Angeles, of which she is a partner, Zeidler (The Gourmet Jewish Cook) here surrenders her favorites, sometimes identifying the source or inspiration. Her range is both satisfying and predictable: gefilte fish, corned beef hash, onion rings, mushroom and barley soup, Caesar salad, rugelach. You almost have to wonder why a cook would want to do it herself, or himself-the deli's meant to do it better, and save you time and trouble. But suppose you were stranded where there wasn't any, and you had to make do. This book, in that case, would lend you a life ring, keep your weight up and probably not do great things for your cholesterol level. It could also make you a popular host, with advice for how to organize a salad bar, a sandwich bar and a deli buffet. The author is host of Judy's Kitchen, a cable television show. (Sept.)