Saveur Cooks Authentic American
Saveur Magazine, Dorothy Kalins. Chronicle Books, $40 (320pp) ISBN 978-0-8118-2160-5
What we think of as down-home American cuisine, for the most part, has been flavored by the immigrants who brought with them their tastes and cultures. More than 400 full-color photos in Saveur magazine's typically lush and intimate mode celebrate over 150 finished dishes, as well as the people and ingredients that made them. Sidebars and headnotes add historical context to such stalwarts as Beef Borscht, brought over by Mennonites exiled from Russia, and Roast Lamb with Potatoes, a favorite from Greece. There's also ""Chow Mein,"" a dish based on an authentic Cantonese fried noodle cake but adopted and altered in America. Chefs and cookbook writers assert pride in domestic dishes as well, as when Marion Cunningham attempts to restore an American icon like Iceberg Wedge with Blue Cheese Dressing to a place of pride. Entr es are as comfortable as Country Ham in Redeye Gravy and Meat Loaf; vegetables are as classic as Creamed Spinach and as familiar as French Fries. And what other place than home can be evoked by Sweet Potato Casserole topped with miniature marshmallows baked until golden? This is luxurious treatment of unassuming food. (Nov.)
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Reviewed on: 08/31/1998
Genre: Nonfiction