Verona, Vicenza and Treviso are sister Veneto cities to the more famous Venice, and della Croce (The Classic Italian Cookbook) visits these and others in 52 recipes. Corn in the form of polenta and rice as risotto are regional dishes, as are fish, chicken and, of course, beef, which here is a stand-in for the occasional horsemeat. Those well-versed in Italian fare will not find revelations here, but the recipes represent a basic repertoire of the country's northern preferences, with nearly all within easy grasp of any home cook. Eggs Scrambled with Sage Extract adds a welcome taste twist to a familiar dish. Spaghetti with Radicchio capitalizes on the now-familiar red vegetable's agreeable bitterness. Rice and Peas in the Style of Corte Sconta is a customary salute to the arrival of spring. When della Croce does specify an uncommon ingredient, as in Remi's Sea Scallops with Goose Prosciutto, she also mentions her list of mail-order resources. One of the more stylish second courses is Roast Young Hen Turkey with Pomegranate Sauce. The overlooked pumpkin comes into its own as a primary ingredient in five recipes, ranging from Savory Pumpkin Pie, an appetizer with accents of pancetta and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, to Mauro Stoppa's Sweet-and-Sour Marinated Pumpkin. The handsome photos throughout, typical in a Chronicle cookbook, are by freelance photographer Paolo Destefanis. (Sept.)
