Koehler does an excellent job of deconstructing paella, an often intimidating dishes. He clearly explains the different types of rice and the best pans (from which the name paella comes); the largest section of the book focuses on the endless variations of paella, starting with the original Paella Valenciana, made with fresh beans and snails. Paella à la marinera
(Fisherman's Paella), one of many seafood versions, includes mussels, monkfish and squid, while Paella de pescado azul
is made with bluefish and artichokes. The popular Mixed Poultry and Seafood Paella is included as well as Rosa'sfamous Shellfish Paella. Other delightful versions are Paella with Rabbit and Artichokes and Paella with Pork Ribs and Turnips. Freelance food and travel writer Koehler also presents dishes using the traditionally Spanish cazuela
(a wide, shallow terra-cotta casserole) and the caldero
(a heavy cast-iron or terra-cotta pot), which produce dishes that are moister and soupier than paella. Two rice pudding recipes make up the dessert section, and Koehler finishes with sources on where to buy rice-cooking equipment and Spanish ingredients, as well as a list of restaurants in Spain that will accommodate every desire. (Nov.)
