The Superpyramid Program

While not offering a great deal that is new, this text is an interesting amalgam of food lore, recipes and nutritional self-help guidelines. Spiller believes that by following a diet of ``whole plant foods'' we can live more fulfilling, healthful lives. The book's backbone is the ``Superpyramid'' program, which consists of five tiers: whole grains, beans, egg whites and nonfat dairy products (including milk, cheeses and yogurt) make up the pyramid's foundation; the second tier is fruits and vegetables; the third is nuts, seeds, olives, avocados and fish; the fourth is low-fat dairy products, meat and cheeses (like a triple-cream Brie). Unlike the architects of the USDA's recent food pyramid, Spiller differentiates between nonfat and whole dairy products, assigning them to separate rungs on his food plan. The author takes great pains to point out that his program is not a diet. He deliberately does not include information about portion sizes--one need only know that the cornerstone of this eating regime is the first-tier foods. The grains, beans and nonfat yogurts are supplemented by foods further up the pyramid and ``the foods on tiers four and five . . . to be consumed in limited amounts.'' The latter pages of the book are devoted to uncomplicated recipes that follow Spiller's program (many have their origins in Mediterranean, Asian or Middle Eastern cuisine). There is also a chapter on breads, muffins and other baked goods using a starter of fermented grains as the leavening agent, rather than store-bought yeast. ``The joy of real food requires a closer contact with the foods of the land,'' Spiller says. ``We have gone too far in making fast foods, food substitutes, and prepared, prepackaged meals a major part of our daily life.'' That's an admirable Frugal Gourmet-like sentiment, but this book may try too hard to repackage yesterday's groceries. (Mar. )