Creating Beauty - CL

Arguing that pseudoscientific theories of race from the 19th and early 20th centuries still impact our current standards of beauty and ""unhappiness"" with our own bodies, prolific critic Gilman (Difference and Pathology) explores plastic surgery as an extension of psychotherapy. He traces the history of aesthetic surgery from its initial function of hiding disease (most particularly syphilis) to its later incarnation as a means of erasing ethnic identity (specifically Jewish identifications by nose shape and size) and creating a more ""normal"" appearance. Freud and other analysts were instrumental in establishing theories of aesthetic surgery and, Gilman argues, ""provided a label for what it cured: inferiority."" Several of Gilman's chapters are devoted to tracing this intersection between theories of race, aesthetics and psychology in the works of early psychoanalysts. Although his overarching argument is compelling, Gilman's work relies heavily on technical language. This work will be most useful to the surgeons and therapists who counsel people seeking plastic surgery and to cultural critics interested in tracing mutations in concepts of health, happiness and beauty. (Nov.) FYI: Also due in November is Silicone Spill: Breast Implants on Trial, by Univ. of Nevada sociologist Mary White Weaver, depicting the social, legal and health-care battles fought by women with implant-related health problems. (Praeger, $26.95 226p ISBN 0-275-96359-4)