Home Bistro: Simple, Sensuous Fare in the Comfort of Your Own Kitchen
Betty Fussell. Ecco, $24 (272pp) ISBN 978-0-88001-526-4
Today's popular bistro formula--good food speedily prepared in relaxing surroundings--fares well at home, according to veteran food authority Fussell, when fresh ingredients are selected and prepared with imagination. Adding 45 new recipes to favorites drawn from 1986's Eating In and Home Plates (1990), Fussell offers more than 180 recipes that tantalize the senses without the need for time-consuming techniques or heavy-duty equipment. Thus, venison steak becomes memorable simply sauced with fresh berries simmered in currant jelly and Dijon mustard; intriguing Wok-Smoked Scallops with Green Sauce requires no more than a few minutes and a wok, rack and blender. Simple, however, need not be mundane: Fussell features extravagances like Truffled Eggs or Gin Quail designed for bold palates and big spenders. Single-dish recipes to serve two--e.g., Chinese Greens with Pesto, and Pasta with Avocado Cream, and Brandied Clam Stew (that can also appear as a clam pie)--are particularly noteworthy. This is a daring volume directed toward adventurous palates stimulated by the possibilities of Walnut-Crusted Flounder or Chocolate-Chile Cream. Culinary explorers drawn to preparing special but not too demanding dishes, even when guests aren't expected, will find that this collection presents a hard-to-resist itinerary. (May)
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Reviewed on: 04/28/1997
Genre: Nonfiction