At Home with the French Classics

If you are cowed by puff pastry, souffles and things sauteed, Grausman's book will help you conquer your awe of French cooking. His title reflects his aim: to make classic French recipes and techniques approachable for the average cook. With more than 20 years of experience as a teacher in this country of the Cordon Bleu technique, Grausman knows the classic dishes inside out but favors the exercise of independent judgment in preparing them, on the theory that ``there is always more than one way to achieve a desired end.'' Accordingly, he advises flexibility and creativity as a cook's cardinal virtues; urges us to adjust ingredients to taste in recipes; and notes that the ``timing given in recipes should be viewed merely as a guide, not an absolute.'' Where practical, recipes have been shortened and do-ahead steps included. Grausman reduces or even eliminates certain staples (salt, sugar, egg yolks, cream) and uses appliances (e.g., food processors) to blend, chop and mix. (Feb.)