The Fog City Diner Cookbook

On the front door of the Fog City Diner in San Francisco is a sign: ``No Crybabies.'' And it means ``anything goes--have a good time, and leave your problems elsewhere,'' writes Bill Higgins, a co-proprietor with Pawlcyn, and contributor of the introduction to this collection of the diner's recipes. Obviously, Fog City has many of the usuals--though they've been spruced up--and, less obviously, it practices the sort of sophistication in food that San Francisco is famous for. So the book serves up mashed potatoes, and duck stew; gingerbread, and sauteed prawns; chili dogs, and lobster gazpacho. This provocative little volume offers a welcome taste of old and new, American and fusion, and a vicarious trip to a metro area that doubles as culinary nirvana. One can nearly understand why people get into the business of serving food (and drink--Fog City is well known for its eclectic stock): pleasure, sheer license. Photos not seen by PW . (June)