The Sicilian Gentleman's Cookbook

The Sicilian Gentleman of the title is the author's father, a man who, according to Baratta, felt that the preponderance of cookbooks by Northern Italians have given an unfair impression of the country's cuisine. This collection of his favorite recipes is a response to that imbalance. Yet these dishesfrom antipasto and salads to pastrydo not differ markedly from those in any standard Italian cookbook. Fish and seafoodlots of anchoviesolives and olive oil, and tomatoes and basil are evidence of the Mediterranean influence, but eggplant parmesan, chicken cacciatore and fettucine all'Alfredo also appear. The recipes generally are straightforward, uncomplicated, honest fare, relying on good, fresh ingredients, but they are unexceptional. What makes this cookbook unusual are the author's witty, conversational musings and his enthusiastic, irreverent and somewhat idiosyncratic approach. (January)