The Contrary Farmer

``Cutting down a large tree should be an act charged with ritual.'' Why? Farming columnist Logsdon ( Organic Orcharding ) points to the tree's ``wonderful accomplishment'' and to its ``feat of survival'' as models for ourselves. Then he goes on to discuss ways of felling trees that have come to the end of their lives and can therefore spare their wood for fuel. This collection of essays recommends cottage farming--the small-scale, part-time growing that aims to reduce food expenses and increase pleasure in living--in a tone that combines even-handed pragmatism, idealism (``Measure the value of products in human terms,'' he urges) and impatient realism (``Let those who put their faith in fancy threads laugh at your jeans''). The author rejects ``institutionalized claptrap'' for the greater benefits of rural independence and freedom, and outlines ways we can pursue these. ``Flee the evils that centralized power always generates,'' he advises, calling himself an investor in ``the tools that make sweat more productive.'' Logsdon raises a sanely unruly voice in a society where life too often only seems civilized. His correctives are not easily applied, but their promise and appeal (like his own) are powerful. (Apr.)