Restaurant Favorites at Home: Part of ""The Best Recipe"" Series
Cook's Illustrated Magazine. America's Test Kitchen, $29.95 (418pp) ISBN 978-0-936184-67-8
The editor and founder of Cooks Illustrated magazine and his devoted staff turn their culinary skills to the deconstruction of complicated restaurant recipes in this solid cookbook, which captures""the magic of five-star recipes without the madness of their execution."" With the intention of simplifying and clarifying restaurant fare, the authors tested and retested complicated instructions and ingredients and pared them down to their essential elements. Thus, Insane Truffle Soup, served at Tru in Chicago, becomes Sane Truffle Soup, a recipe that keeps the essence of truffle flavor without blowing the home cook's budget. And Le Bernardin's Tuna Tartare with Piquillo Peppers, Roasted Tomatoes and Spicy Sweet Potato Tuiles becomes Tuna Tartare with Sweet Potato Crisps, where the roasted tomato garnish is replaced with sweet potato chips, which can even be purchased at a store. Hard-to-find or expensive ingredients and kitchen tools are substituted and replaced with easier to find equipment, and vague instructions are made more precise. Kitchen tips abound: among other suggestions, the editors offer advice on how to shred cheese without making a mess, peel and segment an orange and choose the correct cooking oil for any recipe. The novelty of some of these dishes, such as Green Eggs and Ham, will delight enlightened eaters. A fine addition to Cook's Illustrated's excellent book series, this volume should please cooks of all stripes.
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Reviewed on: 09/01/2003
Genre: Nonfiction