Feasts and Fetes

Shulman ( Mediterranean Light ) remains loyal not only to her Texas roots but to healthy food, although the recipes in this book are drawn from her monthly supper club, hosted in her Paris apartment for some two dozen people. Each chapter covers the menu for one month's gathering, from appetizers to wines. Dishes range from fish to Mexican black bean nachos. Relying on fish, vegetables, fruit and as little fat as possible, recipes will provide you with attractive dishes, whether for a crowd or an intimate group. Planning ahead and good organization are the keys to pulling off these recipes, many of which can be prepared ahead of time and then set aside until needed. Shulman's instructions are explicit, and she has done an admirable job of reducing fat content. When a recipe does call for something like creme fraiche, it's because she believes the dish won't taste as good without it. A chapter on breads and much advice on hosting a large dinner party are included. Most recipes here aren't complicated, but inexperienced cooks should take their time before attempting them. (May)