Southern Fried

With over a dozen cookbooks and two James Beard awards under his belt, Villas weighs in with another well-crafted work, this one focusing on the oily offerings to be found in his favorite part of the U.S. The simplicity of the title belies the diversity of the cuisine. Yes, nearly all of the 190 or so recipes involve some frying, but here frying can be as tricky as a turkey immersed in eight quarts of peanut oil, or as easy as a tablespoon of butter in a skillet to help along a cheese omelet. And the word “Southern” does not readily express the fact that several regional styles are addressed, including Creole, lowcountry, and Appalachian, and that the options include a mix of the traditional and the seriously traditional. So, there are oyster po’boys, flounder strips, and buttermilk hush puppies; but also Arkansas frog legs, brains, and eggs; and Carolina fried livermush (with ingredients that may surprise some non–Tar Heels). And, of course, there is chicken. Villas offers 10 entrees, free-ranging from classic Southern-fried to smothered with artichoke hearts. A beverage chapter would have been a welcomed addition but we are left thirsty. Sweets lovers fare better with a dessert section that includes bourbon peach turnovers and apricot-raisin crepes. (Oct.)