The Gaijin Cookbook: Japanese Recipes from a Chef, Father, Eater, and Lifelong Outsider

In this thoroughly enjoyable follow-up to Ivan Ramen, Orkin and Ying take readers into Orkin’s home kitchen. A New York Jew, Orkin rose to fame serving up schmaltz-seasoned, rye-flour ramen in his Tokyo restaurant. Now, he meditates on a life spent as a gaijin (outsider) immersed in Japanese culture. Shot through with reflections on identity, family, and tradition, the book is arranged into sections including “Eat More Japanese” (which contains foundational recipes), “Open to Anything” (recipes of Western influence, such as curry and fried pork cutlets), and “Otaku (Geeking Out)” (recipes that call for advanced techniques, such as hand-folding gyoza). In the “Empathy/Comfort” section, there’s Tonjiru, a bone-warming pork, miso, and ginger stew that happens to be “a brilliant way to get pickier kids to eat more carrots.” Orkin can be fanatical about Japanese food––his teriyaki recipe is on version 12 and is made with just five ingredients (sake, mirin, sugar, and soy and oyster sauces). Orkin concludes with a Japanese New Year’s meal that includes duck soba, chicken stuffed with burdock root and carrots, mashed sweet potatoes with candied chestnuts, and candied sardines. This passionate, welcoming volume serves as an excellent guide to Japanese home cooking. (Sept.)