Mayan Cuisine: Receipes from the Yucatan Region

In his latest, chef Hoyer (Culinary Mexico) offers a vibrant, thorough guide to Mayan cooking. Once cooks master the basic recado, a thick seasoning paste that serves as a key flavor component, they're ready to tackle dishes like Salpicon de Venado (a roast venison salad), polenta studded with wild mushrooms, classic Mexican Lime Soup and meaty dishes like Pavo en Chilimole (Turkey in Black Seasoning Paste) and the classic pit-roasted pork, Cochinita Pibil. Those looking for shortcuts will likely be frustrated, as Hoyer is a traditionalist who makes tortillas and masa from scratch for his tamales, including the elaborate Tamales de la Bola Colados, a traditional wedding dish in which shredded chicken is enveloped in a smooth, custard-like masa and steamed. That said, many less-complicated dishes are just as rewarding, including pumpkinseed dip and brittle, luscious Chayote Squash Pudding, Cuban roast pork and crunchy Xol-Chon Kek, a jicama and orange salad. Hoyer is encouraging and enthusiastic, offering salient tips for key techniques like working with tamale wrappers and charring tomatoes, as well as sources for hard-to-locate ingredients. Those interested in expanding their cultural and culinary horizons will find this collection both educational and all-inclusive.