The Brisket Chronicles

Barbecue guru Raichlen (Project Smoke) turns his expert attention to that collagen-laced chest cut of beef known, in 1450 England, as bru-kette, revealing it as the modern-day centerpiece for an international menu of delicacies. Over 60 recipes and numerous cooking techniques are interwoven with a look at the food’s history, along with brief profiles of a few of who Raichlen considers America’s best pit masters. Raichlen then traces the path to America of cured brisket from the Irish immigrants of Manhattan’s Lower East Side to their Jewish neighbors, thus there is corned beef as well as pastrami. Boil it Vietnamese style for a bowl of pho or stir in a Creole sauce for a classic ropa vieja. Though preparation usually involves a low and slow approach, be it braising, boiling or smoking, several recipes are quicker, such as a Korean grilled brisket, which is sliced paper-thin, allowing the meat to be ready for serving in just minutes. A chapter of mouthwatering sandwiches includes a double brisket burger borrowed from Jake’s Handcrafted in Brooklyn, while more unique options for utilizing the tender morsels range from brisket tots enlivened with cheddar cheese to brisket scones made with buttermilk. Raichlen shows why he’s rightfully earned a reputation as one of the country’s foremost authorities on beef in this lovingly crafted and comprehensive guide. (May)