A Good Bake: The Art and Science of Making Perfect Pastries, Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and Breads at Home: A Cookbook
Melissa Weller, with Carolynn Carreño. Knopf, $37.50 (496p) ISBN 978-1-5247-3343-8
Weller, a chemical engineer-cum-baker who worked at Babbo and Per Se before opening Sadelle’s in New York City, takes a scientific approach in this tight collection of intriguing recipes. A clever format separates tips and instructions with various font colors in running subheads along the left margin, making recipes exceptionally accessible. Instructions are professional—ingredients are measured in both volume and weight—and bullet-pointed. Numerous master class and tutorial sections transform this from a cookbook with excellent recipes into a series of baking lessons. Weller underlies each decision with logic: strawberry jam and hazelnut rugelach are rectangular rather than triangular because they bake more evenly, and a pâte brisée contains less water than the standard version to stem shrinkage. Each chapter includes recipes both traditional and experimental: one on cakes offers yellow layer cake with chocolate buttercream, as well as an artful stack of orange-scented crepes interspersed with green tea pastry cream. Weller takes every opportunity to fine-tune the process for even the most familiar options: chocolate chip cookies, for instance, incorporate confectioners’ sugar along with granulated and brown sugar for improved texture. This will thrill home bakers who want to bake like the pros. (Nov.)
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Reviewed on: 07/15/2020
Genre: Lifestyle