Mediterra: From the Islands and Shores of the Mediterranean

“The common thread of Mediterranean cooking is the instinctive need to use the best seasonal and regional ingredients from land and sea, prepared with love and care in the simplest of ways,” writes London chef Tish (Sicilia) in this inviting and wide-ranging volume. Mediterranean fare is well-trod cookbook territory, but Tish expands his scope far beyond predictable ratatouille and minestrone, though classics do appear. Recipes are organized into sections by region, then broken down into chapters by country. Fish and seafood, such as crabs baked in their shells from Spain, are expected standouts, but lamb (Tunisian spiced kofte) and chicken (whether fried in Algeria or roasted with grapes in Provence) also feature. Tish’s instructions are clear, but he sometimes throws regional accuracy to the wind, as when he deems a pumpkin soup of his own invention Sicilian (“A hot Sicilian soup is hardly authentic,” he acknowledges, “but the flavours and spirit within the soup most certainly are”) or slots Piedmont-native panna cotta into the islands chapter because he enjoyed the dessert at a Sardinian restaurant. Overall, however, the air of inclusiveness is a plus. Though Tish’s personal take on the food of a broadly defined region sometimes feels fuzzy, the flavors are never less than sharp and attractive. Home cooks are sure to be inspired. (Aug.)