Sugar and Spice

Pastry columnist for America On-Line's Electronic Gourmet Guide, Bloom demonstrates how favorite spices (e.g., nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper) and those less familiar (rosewater and saffron) can transform desserts into memorable creations. Grouping recipes by predominant spice and flavoring (e.g., anise, cardamom, ginger and sesame seeds), Bloom includes directions for tortes, wafers, pies and even ice creams. With a few exceptions (e.g., Allspice-Ginger Wafers and Cardamom Butter Nut Balls), this collection is geared toward experienced cooks and pastry chefs who have access to well-equipped kitchens and full pantries. These cooks will better navigate the labor-intensive process of assembling such sophisticated delicacies as Allspice Torte, Phyllo Caramel Cups, Chocolate-Hazelnut Crostata, Lemon-Mace Roll and Saffron Ice Cream. Notes on the history and characteristics of each spice, plus growing and storing instructions round out each chapter; a list of mail-order sources is also included. (Nov.)