Flavors of Greece

This crammed cookbook goes far beyond the usual moussaka and tzatziki to explore the rustic intricacies of Greek food. Barron, founder of one of Greece's foremost cooking schools, is especially interested in the creative use of fresh herbs; many of her recipes call for Greek-style oregano, rosemary, fennel and mint. Sweet and Sour Zucchini, for example, is bright with cinnamon and pepper, and Grilled Quail is redolent of parsley and lemon. Even desserts are pleasantly spicy: Fruits in Sweet Wine and Honey is seasoned with coriander, and Aromatic Rice Pudding is flavored with the licorice-like taste of mastic. Most of the recipes are relatively simple, but a few require elaborate preparation, such as the Paschal Lamb, which demands ""a spit about six feet long."" However, for households not equipped with such a device, the author allows that the recipe would be well served with a leg of lamb instead of the entire animal, and it is: the tender lamb, rubbed with lemon, oil, sea salt and herbs, is smoky and delicious. A slice or two, alongside some Tiny Cracked Potatoes, a piece of fresh-made Pita Bread and maybe a glass of retsina, and dinner becomes a vacation in the Greek isles.