100 Most Jewish Foods: A Highly Debatable List
Alana Newhouse. Artisan, $24.95 (256p) ISBN 978-1-579-65906-6
Tablet founder and editor-in-chief Newhouse assembles a thoughtful compendium of iconic American and international Jewish foods with recipes celebrating Jewish life. Drawn from Tablet contributors, chefs, and food writers, the short essays and recipes highlight Jewish culinary tradition. Selected food items are listed alphabetically, with recipes and interspersed with food history to bring each dish to life. Fashion designer Zac Posen gushes over the sweet and sour of borscht; Food52 cofounder and CEO Amanda Hesser relishes epic holiday brisket; food critic Mimi Sheraton takes on the bialy (invented when dough “fell on the floor and somebody stepped on it... with the heel”); food writer Melissa Clark shares her appreciation of black-and-white cookies (“chocolate and vanilla coexisting on a smooth, sweet surface”); and former Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl recalls being scolded for her less-than-Kosher Passover leg of lamb (“Not the leg. And definitely not roasted”). As expected, bagels, blintzes, babka and matzo ball reminiscences are also included. Providing a global perspective of Jewish cuisine, Newhouse offers discussions of Adafina, (a form of cholent, the Sabbath overnight stew) from the kitchens of converted Spanish Jews, and the sweet malida porridge of India’s Bene Israel Jews. This entertaining and informative reference brings the rich traditions of Jewish foods to life. (Mar.)
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Reviewed on: 01/17/2019
Genre: Lifestyle