Caprial's Soups & Sandwiches

Pence and Dowers (owner and chef, respectively, at Caprial's Bistro in Portland, Ore.) have accomplished the seemingly impossible: they've taken a familiar topic like soups and sandwiches and managed to come up with surprises. The caveat is that these are not soups or sandwiches that can be slapped together using what's on hand--they require special ingredients and forethought--but the process yields culinary rewards. Several of the offerings, such as Lamb Stew with Wild Mushrooms and Figs and Savory Tomato and Tomatillo Soup with Chiles and Chicken Meatballs, could make for a filling dinner by themselves. Many of the sandwiches presented are complex and time-consuming, too--especially if one chooses to bake Roasted Shallot-Herb Brioche or Bistro Rye Bread to use as a base. The Barbecued Pork Loin Sandwich with Balinese Sambal and Spicy Catfish Sandwich with Tomato Relish are more like entrees served between two slices of bread than traditional sandwiches. Shrimp Sandwich with Mango Relish is a long way from the usual mayonnaise-rich shrimp salad. The requisite recipes for stocks and spreads are provided and, in a refreshing change, photographs feature not just the dishes but the restaurant's staff at work. (Jan.)