Some restaurant cookbooks are not really intended for the home kitchen—and this appears to be true of Charlie Palmer's latest print venture. A year ago he came out with Charlie Palmer's Casual Cooking, and this newest publication could be dubbed "Charlie Palmer's Extremely Haute and Formal Cooking." Its aim is probably to dazzle, and with vibrant color-photo spreads it succeeds: nowhere else is one likely to find Octopus Terrine with Pickled Lemon Rind and Verjus Vinaigrette, or Halibut Cheeks with Beluga Lentils and Sorrel Purée. Lobster roe powder, micro-amaranth, and caul fat are typical ingredients. Those who know what they are and how to get them may find it child's play to take on an entrée like Veal Short Ribs and Sautéed Sweetbreads over Porcini and Asparagus Ragout (which is accompanied by pommes soufflés). Maybe, while tossing off Barbecued Quail with Chipotle Glaze and Tart Apple-Onion Soubise, such skilled culinarians will easily make out the tiny, design-victim type, crazily tilted at 45-degree angles in two directions. For most, this bravura cookbook practically shouts, "Don't Try This at Home!" Those who heed that message will find themselves inexplicably driven to the restaurant, where the plated wonders will seem all the more enticing once you know how unimaginably difficult they are to craft. (June)
