DA SILVANO COOKBOOK: Simple Secrets from New York's Favorite Italian Restaurant

Serving customers since 1975, Da Silvano has thrived in a notoriously fickle environment far longer than many illustrious competitors, and Marchetto says he has not written a cookbook until now because he has been too busy. Reflecting the Tuscan cuisine he grew up with in Florence, the chef celebrates Italian tradition and its rewarding simplicity. Here are recipes for Spaghetti Puttanesca, Pasta e Fagioli and the classic Osso Buco alla Milanese. Marchetto also has a deft hand at creating dishes a bit out of the ordinary, including Monkfish and Melon Carpaccio and Veal Scaloppine, Silvano Style, which is cooked with sliced button mushrooms and heavy cream. Other popular recipes from this West Village establishment include Garlic Soup, with peeled cloves from eight heads of the fragrant bulb tamed by simmering two hours in two quarts of chicken broth, Crème Caramel lightened with lemon zest and Da Silvano's signature dessert, Panna Cotta, which acquires its firmness from being cooked in the oven, not on the stovetop. Another notable recipe from the menu is Chicken Cooked in Beer, which promises utterly succulent results. Marchetto's food is hearty and decidedly unpretentious, which makes this a welcome entry in a world of chef cookbooks, where many offerings can be a daunting stretch for home cooks. Tosches, a Da Silvano regular, delivers an ever-perfect introduction to this cookbook. (Oct.)