cover image Japanese Soul Cooking: Ramen, Tonkatsu, Tempura, and More from the Streets and Kitchens of Tokyo and Beyond

Japanese Soul Cooking: Ramen, Tonkatsu, Tempura, and More from the Streets and Kitchens of Tokyo and Beyond

Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat. Ten Speed, $27.50 (256p) ISBN 978-1-60774-352-1

The breadth and diversity of Japanese cuisine can be daunting for a novice%E2%80%94there are twenty-odd known regional styles of ramen alone%E2%80%94but this smart book handily demystifies the noodle bowl and its comfort food counterparts. Ono, executive chef of Matsuri in New York, and Salat (japanesefoodreport.com) tackle basic dishes like ramen, gyoza, curry, tonkatsu (along with many others), positing a cultural history, a master recipe and several variations on the basic theme. Add to that a glossary of ingredients and helpful tips such as how to prepare oysters for deep-fried furai, how to cook dried soba and an introduction to Kewpie mayonnaise, and this tome becomes an invaluable resource. Perhaps most fascinating of all is the way Japanese cuisine has absorbed and remixed cooking from Korea, the United States, China and elsewhere to produce such innovations as pork fried rice with red pickled ginger and "Napolitan" Spaghetti, made with smoked sausages, ketchup, and sake. The authors' unbridled enthusiasm makes this cookbook as fun and delicious as the must-try recipes. Photos. (Nov.)