Around the Fire

Inspired by their visits to Uruguay and Argentina, chefs Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quinonez Denton incorporated many of the techniques and dishes of Latin American chefs with their own to create Ox, an Argentinian hybrid restaurant in Portland, Ore., that relies on a large Argentinian parilla grill for much of its items. Though its highly effective for many of the restaurant’s dishes, home cooks won’t need to build or buy anything so massive in order to achieve similar results using the recipes found here. Deftly merging toothsome recipes with the unique, smoky quality achieved by cooking over live coals, the duo offer dozens of inspired dishes. Some, like clam chowder with smoked beef marrow bones, green onions, and jalapenos, and a smoked beef tongue with ensalada rusa and sweetbread croutons, are probably best left to the restaurateurs; but even newbies will find coal-roasted oysters on the half-shell, and grilled maple-brined pork chops, tasty and easy to prepare. Though some dishes call for painfully specific ingredients such as turkey butts and lamb hearts, readers shouldn’t run into too much trouble sourcing ingredients, and stand-ins are often recommended. Though this probably isn’t the best resource for novices, experienced grillers and foodies interested in upping their grilling game are sure to find inspiration here. (Mar.)