Fish Indian Style

In this fresh, contemporary collection of recipes, London chef Kochhar (Indian Essence) laments the lack of seafood in Indian cookery, which tends to fixate on heavy curries. He sets out to right this problem. This being a fish-only book, chapters include Soups and Stews, Starters, Salads, Fish for Everyday, and special-occasion fish dishes. Traditional Indian fare is the starting point, like mulligatawny soup, updated with a sprinkling of crabmeat; samosas, stuffed with spiced crayfish fish marinated in masala and served with paratha bread. English influences sneak in, too, by way of Bubble and Squeak with leftover fish, and fish kebab and chips on a roll. Other dishes, like Mumbai fish pizza and swordfish stroganoff showcase Kochhar's profound creativity and sense of humor. While the book's scope is narrow, this volume more than fulfills its stated goal. Even better, its recipes are simple enough to make this powerfully flavorful food accessible at home. (Dec.)