The Complete Modern Pantry: 350+ Ways to Cook Well with What’s on Hand

The staff at America’s Test Kitchen (Desserts Illustrated) find all the potential of the humble pantry in this excellent outing. “Thinking about your pantry in terms of categories can make it easier to improvise your next dinner” they write, applying their signature “why this works” approach to uses for pantry staples: kecap manis (a salty-sweet soy sauce) layers in deep flavors to stews, glazes, and umami-packed dishes such as nasi goreng, and the surprising use of warming Arabic spice blend baharat is suggested for dishes like tacos and french fries. Expert tips enhance even the simplest preparations, such as microwaving chopped onion in a little oil to release more flavor or hydrating garlic powder to activate its flavor enzyme. Possible substitutions underscore the notion that a well-stocked pantry “doesn’t mean having everything,” so balsamic or sherry vinegar can stand in for Chinese black vinegar, while mayonnaise replaces eggs and dairy in a moist chocolate cake. Perhaps most helpful even for experienced cooks is a quick list of essential techniques, including pan-searing frozen vegetables and toasting panko bread crumbs in the microwave. The bountiful, smart advice makes this an invaluable kitchen companion. (Nov.)