Gâteaux: Sweets (Modern French Pastry)

Pastry chef Yoshida presents a refined recipe collection inspired by French patisserie in his elegant if fussy English-language debut. While croissants, chocolate eclairs, Mont Blanc, and other French classics make an appearance, many recipes take inspiration from other parts of the world: the black sesame seed Paris–Brest, for instance, pays homage to Yoshida’s native Japan, and “Sicilia,” a pistachio Joconde sponge with Morello cherry compote, is inspired by Italian pastry. Yoshida admits these desserts “require skill and experience” and even seasoned home bakers will encounter unfamiliar techniques and equipment. Thankfully, Yoshida provides helpful, step-by-step illustrations for assembling fig macarons, piping the lemon tart, and laminating inverse puff pastry. Though the pompous prose at times chafes (“I did make a few improvements to accommodate the French palate, which is more familiar with the real taste of chocolate,” Yoshida says of American brownies) and the recipes can be pretentious (one of his creations, a gateau made with caramelized maple sugar, is simply titled “M”), these tonal issues won’t deter ambitious readers from trying their hands at the gorgeous Souche de Noël, a pistachio-raspberry Saint-Honoré, hazelnut millefeuille, and other show-stopping desserts. Veteran bakers will be rewarded. (Feb.)